i'm still amazed i managed that train journey essentially alone. there were some people there - about five non chinese/mongolian/russians that could speak English and i was grateful for that but it's always a bit odd isn't it? thrown together with random people you have not much in common with other than you're taking a train together and only have each other for company for the next 6 days.but i did it and i'm proud of myself for that. i read two books, did a little colouring and a tiny bit of writing but not much because the train was too bumpy. i got some ideas in my head and must get them down on paper at some point. i also decided that when i could afford to i would take a creative writing course at home...
some of the scenery along the way was stunning - i slept through most of China though. The desert (ther Gobi i think it's called) was very desert-like as one might expect. i saw a camel, i saw some very pitiful plant things and then after about an hour of staring at it, i decided that that was enough desert...i've seen one before and this one wasn't much different. but it was pretty and calming for a while.The Mongolian border crossing was just a pain. It took seven hours altogether and a lot of form filling in at silly hours in the morning. I wanted to get off at Ulan Bator (capital of Mongolia) and send myself a postcard but there was nobody about. they weren't letting any little people selling things onto the platforms due to the sars thing. but i did stand there so i can now say i've been there. Mongolia was little and warm and sandy.
Then there came the Russia. Another long border crossing at 3am with soldiers telling us to get out of bed so they can check there's noone hiding anywhere, being prodded by women in white weilding thermometors...there was one very sweet Mongolian border girl who sat down with me and wanted to know all about why i was on my own, about my family, why wasn;t i married etc. she was sweet and we somehow managed with my terrible russian and her very good russian. i got a little confused about which language i was meant to speak but we got there. she made me show her photos and gave me her address so i can send her something when i get home. she told me she wants to go to england so badly, to take her two boys there and have a better life...and just because she was so sweet i will send her a little letter. she helped the time pass a little quicker.
what else about the train? Oh! the dining car - hmmm. no choice at all for food but they had plenty of beer and vodka. that didn't surprise me from the Russians at all. The last night we had a dance in the dining car and lots of vodka. that was fun.
Lake Baikal in Siberia is huge. and beautiful. it was still mostly frozen but in summer it is meant to be lovely. we drove past it for about three hours. there's a book about some American who decided to walk or ride a horse around the lake or something like that, and it took him over a year...Apparantly, when you stop at that station, you can run down to the lake, put your foot in it and then run back to the train and be off again but it's a good job none of us did that because the train didn;t stop for as long as it was meant to and being stuck in siberia with no clothes and probably no money or passport would be a nightmare.
Anyway, finally got to Moscow, which was miserable and grey and wet and cold (it has been beautifully warm ever since) and have been doing not that much really. We have been to Red Square, done some walking, eaten far too much, only drunk too much one night and generally just caught up on gossip and giggling. we went to a strip bar one night and it was not as exciting as it should have been but i am glad i went and now can say i have done that. there was a scarey car driver on the way there who wanted me and fortunately gavin had the presence of mind to not open his door before i got out...and then random drunk police man waving his badge about in the club telling us all we had to stand up so he could look under the table but you don;t question the Russian police - they are all evil! plus i was not registered then and that could have meant trouble ( i am now). some drunk girl then proceeded to shout at me because i did not have a mobile phone she could use and told me my russian was shit. i told her i knew that already. she was very small but very loud. and very drunk.
most people are very drunk in moscow. i told you beer is not alcohol so people can buy and drink wherever and whenever? some of those people are quite scary indeed.
May 9th was Victory day and there were lots of people about but not too drunk as they stopped anyone selling it near the center because last year there were riots and stuff. it was nice to see so many people out and about and all smiling. but also too many police about for my liking. i don't know why but i immediately feel guilty when i see one. there were also horses to be seen and silly floppy bunny ears to be worn (which we did to everyone's amusement).
I have realised my Russian is terrible - i can understand more than i can say and i get embarrassed when i have to speak it when G is about but that's ok, yes? i only studied it for a year ten years ago...i do want to have classes though as well as chinese too. if i have the money to do it i will be a busy girl.
and so yes, i am staying another week with gavin even though i can't really afford to but i think it is good for both of us. it was his idea which made me feel better too.
